By the time the United States emerged from the Depression, Europe and much of Asia were already at war. Paris under Nazi occupation was a disaster for Haute Couture and one that gave great opportunity to the growing fashion industry in the United States.
Women who were deprived of the latest fashions from Paris began to look to homegrown talent. Designers such as Norman Norell and Claire McCardell soon built a following. Mainbocher and Molyneux fled Europe and set up shop in the United States. This development profoundly changed America’s fashion profile and the market continued to gain momentum after the war ended.
Wartime regulations such as L-85, which regulated how much fabric and what garment types could be manufactured, were applied to both men’s and women’s clothing. Materials that were needed for military purposes were restricted for civilian use. Though the restrictions were not difficult to heed, manufacturers over-complied in support of the war effort. Utility and practicality became more fashionable and “Rosie the Riveter” was created as a role model. Frivolity and extravagance were put on hold. The emblematic wide-shouldered, slim-waisted, narrow-hipped silhouette of the 1940s was established.
The war also brought social and cultural change as greater numbers of women entered the workplace. Slacks, once considered scandalous and fit only for the boudoir, gained popularity. For many years however, even into the 1960s, it was to be a subject of debate as to whether they were appropriate in the workplace or not!
February 1947 brought one of fashion history’s most dramatic events – Christian Dior’s explosive first collection hit the runway. He called it the Corolle line but the American press, which referred to the collection as “New Look”, ignored this. The media’s chosen name stuck and so did the fashion.
The New Look called for rounded shoulders, exaggerated bust lines, wasp waists and padded hips and long, often extravagantly full skirts that required an exorbitant amount of fabric. This was a strident comment on the end of wartime asceticism.
While fashion writers loved the New Look, initially it met with public resistance. Many viewed it as frivolous and wasteful after the rationing and deprivation of World War II – especially when the economic hardships of war were still very much a reality in Europe. But ultimately, the New Look became a symbol of the return of prosperity, femininity, and glamour. Women who had for years worn the more austere fashions of the 1940s (and were fatigued at reading endless articles on how to extend the life of old garments) began to see a distinct appeal in the swish of long skirts and the allure of curvaceous shapes. The “New Look” was essential in restoring the French couture industry and was the cornerstone of the following decade’s predominant fashion aesthetic.
Written by The Vintage Fashion Guild
1940s Adrian Original jacket
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage com
1940s Adrian Original gabardine suit
Courtesy of thespectrum
1940s Adrian Original silk dress
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s brocade wedding gown
Courtesy of poppysvintageclothing
1940s striped silk dress
Courtsey of tastyvintage.com
1940s Eisenberg Original rayon dress
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s rayon print dress
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s floral print rayon peplum dress
Courtesy of noblesavagevintage.com
1940s Frank Starr Ted Shore Original Gown
Courtesy of denisebrain
1940s cocktail dress with hip pleats
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
1940s grey flannel suit
Courtesy of antiquedress.com
1940s beaded details dress
Courtesy of magsragsvintage
1940s Hawaiian Holoku dress
Courtesy of denisebrain
1940s halter sundress with bolero jacket
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
1940s print rayon dress
Courtesy of vintagedevotion
1940s plaid sundress
Courtesy of clubvintagefashions.com
1940s silk charmeuse nightgown set
Courtesy of poppysvintageclothing
1940s mens suit (lapels)
Courtesy of magsragsvintage
1940s satin oil well necktie
Courtesy of thespectrum
1940s jazz ties
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s reversible souvenir jacket
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s Japan souvenir jacket
Courtesy of clubvintagefashions
1940s Japan souvenir jacket
Courtesy of clubvintagefashions
1940s Utah Woolen Mills twill jacket
Courtesy of mariansvintagevanities
1940s cowl jacket
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s bolero with soutache trim
Courtesy of poppysvintageclothing
1940s dress with matching coat
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s Fairview wool coat
Courtesy of poppysvintageclothing
1940s wool and Persian lamb coat
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s doll hat
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
1940s felt bows forward tilted doll hat
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
1940s ruffled brim doll hat
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
1940s straw hat
Courtesy of mariansvintagevanities
1940s hat
Courtesy of magsragsvintage
1940s wool felt hat
Courtesy of fallsavenuevintage
1940s peeptoe shoes
Courtesy of magsragsvintage
1940s Lederer ostrich platform shoes
Courtesy of thespectrum
1940s velvet platforms
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1940s suede platforms
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1940s JoAnn Original soutache handbag with bakelite clasp
Courtesy of fallsavenuevintage
1940s antelope suede purse
Courtesy of poppysvintageclothing
1940s Mexican sterling brooch
Courtesy of cur.iovintage
1940s Harry Iskin brooch
Courtesy of linnscollection
1940s Eisenberg Original sterling brooch
Courtesy of linnscollection
1940 Trifari moonstone brooch
Courtesy of linnscollection
1940 wool & suede suit by Jane
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
early 1940s Eisenberg Original rhinestone fur clip
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
early 1940s eyelet gown
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
early 1940s damask evening coat
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
early 1940s Walter Florell marabou feather hat
Courtesy of ruedelapaix
1941 John Frederics of Hollywood velvet turban
Courtesy of ruedelapaix
1945 Eisenberg Originals suit
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1945 Carolyn Kelsey Evening Gown
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1945 – 46 rayon crepe dress with studding
Courtedy of coutureallure.com
1945-46 Ceil Chapman crepe dress
Courtexy of antiquedress.com
1946 evening dress, jacket & purse set
Courtesy of kickshawproductions
1946 Corocraft brooch
Courtesy of linnscollection
1946 novelty print set
Courtesy of denisebrain
mid 1940s Delman leather peeptoe shoes
Courtesy of cur.iovintage
1947 peplum dress
Courtesy of denisebrain
1947 Textron set
Courtesy of denisebrain
1948 Weldon men’s rayon pajamas
Courtesy of cur.iovintage
1948 Coro owl demi-parure
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1949 silk taffeta dress
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1949 green wool gabardine suit
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1949 print crepe dress
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1949 rayon crepe dress
courtesy of designertrend.com
late 1940s suit
Courtesy of denisebrain
late 1940s snakeskin platform shoes
Courtesy of clubvintagefashions
late 1940s Acro rayon necktie
Courtesy of cur.iovintage
late1940s neckties
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
late 1940s neckties
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
late 1940s silky rayon Hawaiian shirt
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
late 1940s Duke Kahanamoku Hawaiian rayon shirt
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
late 1940s Hawaiian ranch brands cotton shirt
Courtesy of thespectrum
late 1940s cold rayon Penney’s shirt
Courtesy of thespectrum
