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In the 1830s, the first cross-cut Gigot, or Leg O’ Mutton, sleeves appeared. The previous shoulder fullness dropped toward the elbow, and sleeves became enormous. The waist resumed its natural position, while necklines became very wide. Bodice lines took on a distinctive V-shape. Ankle-length skirts became quite full and needed several petticoats underneath for support. This produced the 19th-century’s first version of an hourglass silhouette.

As often happens, when one fashion change occurs, the need for another is created. The very full sleeves that were in vogue demanded alternative outerwear. It was difficult to force these large sleeves into coats, so cloaks were worn. Short capes with longer front ends, called pelerines, become quite popular, as did chemisettes (under-bodices of net or lace) for low-necked gowns. The focus was on femininity. Aprons were popular accessories.

Written by The Vintage Fashion Guild


 1830 cotton dress - Courtesy of vintagetextile.com

1830 cotton dress

Courtesy of vintagetextile.com

 1830 Tambour embroidered morning dress - Courtesy of contentmentfarmantiques.com

1830 Tambour embroidered morning dress

Courtesy of contentmentfarmantiques.com

1835 rose silk Bengaline ballgown - Courtesy of contentmentfarmantiques.com

1835 rose silk Bengaline ballgown

Courtesy of contentmentfarmantiques.com

 1837 cotton roller print dress - Courtesy of antiquedress.com

1837 cotton roller print dress

Courtesy of antiquedress.com