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Allan James, originally from Hawaiʻi Island, opened Hawaiian Heritage by Allan James in 1986. The label manufactured men’s and women’s aloha wear on Oʻahu, at a studio in Kalihi. The fabric used in the garments were designed with elements of Hawaiian culture, notably plants, lei, and Hawaiian quilts. Printed on solid-colored cotton-polyester blend fabric, the design often contained the designer’s signature. The dresses typically have details evoking late-19th-century styles with puffed sleeves, sleeve bands, yokes, and plackets. Covered buttons using a solid contrasting color fabric and dress hems usually ending with ruffles were also common design elements.

Written by Tory Laitila