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The Vintage Fashion Guild™ (VFG) is an international organization dedicated to the promotion and preservation of vintage fashion.
The Vintage Fashion Guild™ (VFG) is an international community of people with expertise in vintage fashion. VFG members enjoy a wealth of resources, avenues for promoting their shops and specialties, and camaraderie with others who share a common interest and passion.
Men were wearing manufactured “under drawers” made of flannel by the 1830’s. Union Suits were first patented in 1868 for women as an alternative to constricting garments. This was part of the 19th century US clothing reform efforts and was billed as “emancipation union under flannel.” Union suits then became popular among men as well.
C. F. Bennett of the Chicago sporting goods company, Sharp & Smith, invented the jockstrap in 1874. It was originally designed to support and protect the bicycle jockeys who rode the cobbled streets of Boston. Twenty-three years later, Bennett’s Bike Web Company began mass-producing the Bike Jockey Strap.
John L. Sullivan, boxing’s first modern world heavyweight champion (1882 -1892), wore long wool drawers in boxing competitions. Because of his popularity in the US these became known as “long johns.”
In 1910 the Saturday Evening Post ran the first full color ad for underwear, a painting, not a photograph.
Into the 1920’s men still wore flannel drawers and flannel tops under their clothes. These were available as separate vests and ankle length drawers, or as the all-in-one piece union suit. These must have been cumbersome as they buttoned up the front and had a buttoned “back seat.” (Also known as the “access hatch” and “fireman’s flap”).
New designs were tried out with the emphasis on comfort and ads were full of different “patented” designs to reduce buttons and increase accessibility.
Men’s underwear would shrink from the first wash and it was difficult to determine the correct size. Sanford L Cluett invented sanforized material (patented 1930’s) which guaranteed that an item would not shrink more than one percent.
Boxing brought on the next change of style. Jacob Golomb, the founder of Everlast, replaced leather belts on the boxers’ shorts with elastic. These then became known as “boxer shorts.”
In 1934 Arthur Kneibler of the sock company, Coopers, developed a snug, legless underwear with an overlapping Y-vent fly. They patented this Y-front and produced it in both long and short length knitted drawers, and introduced what we now call briefs — all under the Jockey trademark.
Thirty thousand pairs of new Jockeys sold within the first three months of introduction. In 1936 Munsingerwear developed “the kangaroo pouch” underwear which used a horizontal vent.
The current trend of colored underwear can be traced to World War Two. Troops took fire because their underwear could be seen drying by the enemy. The Jockey Company switched to an “olive drab” color for service underwear. A wartime ad in 1945 had the headline: “Target: White Underwear”. The ad explained why the army changed to OD (Olive Drab): “A spot of white against coral sand or tropic green makes a bull’s eye for the enemy. Patches of white draw gunfire; they show troops are there. Olive drab blends with its background .”
Men started wearing undershirts outside in the 1950’s. Also in 1950s the first T-shirts with nylon-reinforced neckbands to prevent sagging were introduced.
The 1960’s saw the shift of underwear from function to fashion. Bikini briefs were introduced that hung low on the hip and had elastic on the legs. They offered no access flap and were available in high and low-sided versions. Novelty prints and wild colors were added. Boxer shorts were also being offered in solid colors, patterns, and prints from abstract to holiday-themed.
Hanes introduced the “Beefy-T” heavyweight T-shirt in 1975, which had a stronger fabric for screen-printing purposes.
In 1982 Calvin Klein introduced his line of men’s underwear which sealed the deal on the perception of men’s underwear becoming a fashion statement. His model was Tom Hintnaus, Olympic pole vaulter.
Boxer briefs were popularized in the 1990s, combining the boxer’s length with the shape and fit of a brief. Also n the 1990s, hip-hop artists made it fashionable for men to wear their pants below their waists, showing their boxers or briefs. This style, called “sagging,” may have originated in prison when jail inmates had their belts removed because they could be used as a possible weapon. Others believe this style originated as a sign of availability among homosexuals.
Written by Amandainvermont
Courtesy of gilo49
Courtesy of amandainvermont
Courtesy of yumyumvintage
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