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This is the second in a series of the essential books in VFG member Maggie Muellner’s vintage fashion library. Her previous pick is here.

Dover put out Mary Brooks Picken’s A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion, Historic and Modern in 1999. It’s an unabridged republication of Picken’s Fashion Dictionary, originally published in 1957. This one covers more ground than Essential Terms of Fashion (reviewed here), both in breadth and depth. It is a true dictionary, but focuses on words associated with wearing apparel and accessories and their components. From “aal” (a red dye obtained from the root of an Indian shrub) to “Zulu cloth”, there are more than 10,000 entries and nearly 1,000 illustrations.

The entries include “groups”, similar to the focused chapters in Essential Terms, but covering a wider range – examples include “Lace, Weaves and Embroideries” in addition to the more obvious elements like “Sleeves, Collars and Necklines”. There’s a lot here for historical costumers as well as students of fashion like me.

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Maggie Muellner of Mags Rags and MagsRagsVintage on Etsy shares one of her essential vintage fashion reference books.

I’ve been collecting vintage clothing & accessories since I was 20 years old.  As a visual learner and voracious reader, it was probably inevitable that I would accumulate an extensive library of books about vintage fashion, some for reference, and many for the sheer eye candy indulgence. Here’s an introduction to one of my favorites.

The single reference book that I use the most is Essential Terms of Fashion: A Collection of Definitions by Charlotte Mankey Calasibetta, published in 1985.

I keep this book next to me when I’m working on writing descriptions. As you can see from my photo, I’ve used it so much the binding has cracked. Sometimes I need to confirm that I’m using the correct term for a design detail (is that deep set sleeve dolman or raglan or batwing?). In the process of double-checking, I often stop to browse. Then the next time I’m faced with an unusual collar I know just where to go. I can open the book to the collar chapter and pinpoint that long collar that’s rounded at the end instead of pointed – aha! It’s a dog’s-ear collar!

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From a 1920s wool coat to a 1990s retro tie, this week’s “Fresh Vintage” thread has a fine selection of just listed authentic vintage. The thread is HERE.

Below is one item from each participating member. Click on the item for more information.

This week vintage Pucci, Lilli Ann and Laura Ashley have popped up HERE on the “Fresh Vintage” thread in the VFG forums. A sample from each member who participated this week is posted below. These images are clickable for details.

Looking for something vintage by Karl Lagerfeld or Ceil Chapman? Or perhaps a novelty sweater by Berek or a 60s barkcloth dress? All these things can be found in the week’s FRESH VINTAGE here .

On that thread you can find many new authentic vintage garments. Below is one clickable item from each participating member.

Why does this 1950s dress cost $49, this one $98 and that one $300? Ever wondered why the big differences?

I am sometimes asked if I can accept an offer of a lower price for an item I have for sale, and I don’t like to just bluntly refuse without an explanation. Sometimes I’m asked how to price a vintage item, or why an item I’m selling is a certain price. This post is to explain a little about the vintage clothing and accessories marketplace and the pricing one sees.

First, you need to know how vintage clothing is acquired by those who present it for resale. With the exception of some one-shot eBay sellers, it is infrequently something from the seller’s own closet or family’s closets. Very infrequently it was given to the seller. Usually, vintage sellers who have been around any length of time must find and purchase vintage fashions. They may get up very early to get in line for promising estate sales, garage sales, car boot sales and flea markets. They may put ads out for purchasing vintage clothing and go on buying trips to nearby (or far away) cities and towns. They may regularly scour the thrift, second-hand and antique markets. Auctions can also be sources. The seller has to make many good contacts, persevere and be resourceful.

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Whether it’s a 1920s dress or a 1970s novelty scotty dog blouse, you can be sure you are buying authentic vintage when you shop with members of the Vintage Fashion Guild. Every week members post their new listings HERE

A sample from each member who participated this week is posted below. These images are clickable for details.

This week we have a 1990s Pucci dress, 1920s satin pumps and an antique Chinese wedding skirt among the items on the Fresh Vintage thread. To see more, visit HERE . Below is one clickable item from each participating member.

For the latest in “authentic vintage” check out the “Fresh Vintage thread HERE on the Vintage Fashion Guild forums. Below is a “clickable” item from each participating member.

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When you think of Diane Freis, your first thought might well be color, followed very shortly by print-mixing and bohemian. Her 1980s’ vibrantly patterned, easy-fit and flowing styles are bestsellers in the vintage world, beloved for their quality and distinctive sensibility.

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Vintage handknit sweaters, bold costume jewelery and vintage Mexican souvenir jackets are among the new “Fresh Vintage” which you can see HERE in the VFG Forums. One item from each participating member is shown below. Click on the images for detailed information.

In 2009, the world lost the textile artist Mary Catherine Lamb. MC, as her friends knew her, was a renowned creator of art quilts. She also offered vintage clothing for sale, which brought her and her creativity and wit to the VFG. MC had a special fondness for vintage novelty labels—the kind of label that has a cute graphic, a clever name, or a visual pun. When MC Lamb died at the age of 60, her fellow VFG members started a Novelty Labels collection dedicated to her memory.

You may have seen the Novelty Labels gallery, aka MC’s Cute Labels on Parade, but if you haven’t looked at it recently you should revisit—These little gems now take up four pages, organized approximately by date.

Just a few of the many labels in the VFG’s Novelty Labels

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VFG member Kerry Taylor is presenting an auction called Passion for Fashion on December 8, 2020 (details here).

To be auctioned is a truly remarkable group of items: Al Capone’s autographed spats, a 1921 Chanel couture little black dress, Queen Victoria’s nightie and stockings, costumes created for Diaghilev and his Ballets Russes, 27 lots of Balenciaga, a trove of fashion, photographs and ephemera relating to the last queen of Madagascar, and two extraordinary ensembles worn by Lady Gaga.

Please, for your own sake, look through the catalogue.

Designers represented include:

Fortuny
Lanvin
Chanel
Vionnet
Molyneux
Worth
Callot Soeurs
Salvador Dali for Schiaparelli
Adrian
Madame Grès
Dior
Balmain
Carven
Maggy Rouff
Balenciaga
Norman Hartnell
Fath
Saint Laurent
Valentino
Roger Vivier
Guy Laroche
Marc Bohan
Lagerfeld
Pucci
Zandra Rhodes
Gucci
Thea Porter
Ossie Clark
Cardin
Givenchy
Issey Miyake
Yohji Yamamoto
Kansai Yamamoto
Rei Kawakubo
Mugler
Vivienne Westwood
Moschino
Gaultier
Galliano
Alaïa
Margiela
Ralph Rucci
Tom Ford
Ralph Lauren
McQueen
Philip Treacy

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From a vintage 1920s Tiffany purse to a 1970s work jacket, this week’s Fresh Vintage thread has a great selection of authentic vintage offered by members of the Vintage Fashion Guild. You can see the most recent listings HERE and one item from each participating member is shown below. These images are clickable to get details and price.

There is a V for Victory pin from WWII, a 1930s wool tam hat, a 1970s Greek kaftan and a Miriam Haskell necklace among the many authentic vintage items at this week’s “Fresh Vintage” thread. To see many more new listings, click HERE.
One item from every member who contributed this week is shown below. To get more information and asking price, each of the items below are clickable.

A recently-discovered archive of fashion, photographs and letters relating to the tragic Queen Ranavalona III was recently unearthed by a British family during a house move.

Queen Ranavalona III

In 1895 France invaded and annexed the island of Madagascar, abolished the monarchy and in 1897 Queen Ranavalona III was sent into exile to the island of Réunion. She was accompanied by her close family and a handful of servants including her loyal paid companion – Miss Clara Herbert. A devout protestant, Miss Herbert (b.1871) was a descendent of the Herberts of Muckross House, Co. Kerry, Ireland. A lady of genteel upbringing, but little money, she was a talented linguist and sought employment as a paid companion. Clara was fluent in French, Malagasy and seven Chinese dialects. According to her family she worked for the Madagascan Royal family from the late 1890s until the early 1920s, accompanying them through their trials, tribulations and adventures.

Left: Clara Herbert
Right: Part of lot 51, fashion, photos and ephemera relating to the Queen of Madagascar – Ranavalona III and Princess Ramisindrazana, 1897-1924, estimate £600-1,000

The archive so carefully compiled and preserved by Miss Herbert gives a glimpse into the lives of the Queen and the women who surrounded her and includes poignant images of Ranavalona, seated regally on her throne in Madagascar during the last days of her reign. Her crown (presumably seized as booty by the French) is now in the Musée de l’Armée, Paris. Photographed in Réunion in the early days of her captivity, she looks thin, downcast and stands outside a palatial wooden villa with her mother and influential aunt – Princess Ramisindrazana and nephew (in the bowler hat), Prince Rakotomena.

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Vintage men’s smoking jackets, a Missoni knit set, a Victorian man’s shirt and a 1950s “rockabilly” man’s shirt are among the great vintage listings put up this week by members of the Vintage Fashion Guild. To look at these choices and many more, click HERE . Below is one item from each member participating in the “Fresh Vintage” thread. All images are clickable for more information, including price.

VFG member Ilaria De Santis has curated an exceptional selection of fine fashion and jewelry (her lots are 1-201) for the Bertolami Fine Arts auction to be held in Rome on November 23, 2020. Bids can also be made via Live Auctioneers and other websites.

Italy is well-represented in the auction, with pieces by Valentino, Gucci, Moschino, Pucci, Dolce E Gabbana, Maria Monaci Gallenga, Capucci, Versace, Ungaro, Gianfranco Ferré, and Fendi on offer; along with Mugler, Gaultier, Ossie Clark, Kansai Yamamoto, and wonderful unlabeled pieces from the 1920s and 30s, among other items.

“”:https://auctions.bertolamifinearts.com/en/auc/131/auction-83-fashion-luxury-jewelry-autographs-and-memorabilia-militaria-medals-orders-of-chivalry/1/

Written by Maggie Wilds/denisebrain

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Vintage Pendleton or vintage Pucci – they’re among the many names offered up in this week’s “Fresh Vintage” thread HERE on the forums. There’s a lovely 1920s silk chiffon tabbard and a fun 1990s novelty sweater and LOTS in between. Please visit us.

One item from each participating Vintage Fashion Guild member can be seen below. Click on the image for more information.

A spectacular auction of historic fashion and textiles takes place on November 18.

Held by VFG member Augusta Auctions, this drool-worthy collection includes designer pieces by Dior, Adrian, Givenchy, Missoni, Emilio Pucci, Bonnie Cashin, Irene, Balmain, Comme des Garçons/Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto. There is a silk satin wedding gown from c.1855, a group of designer 1960s and 1970s air hostess ensembles, Chinese robes, traditional clothing and textiles from around the globe, a group of 1920s bathing costumes, opera coats and capes, beaded and lamé garments, and much more.

Taking a look through the beautifully photographed auction catalogue is a must.

The auction will take place online due to COVID-19 precautions; find out more at the Augusta Auctions website.
Written by Maggie Wilds/ denisebrain

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