Woven pattern fabrics: non-geometric

An elaborately-patterned fabric woven on a jacquard loom since the early 19th century, brocade uses color, texture or both to emphasize its figures. The figures and ground may be of contrasting weaves such as satin on plain weave. Brocade is not considered reversible; the reverse is often distinguished by long floating threads.

Brocade was originally made in Asia, of silk with gold or silver threads, and it may still be silk or a manufactured filament fiber with metallic threads. The original looming was done manually.

Uses: Evening wear, accessories, household items

See also:
Brocatelle
Damask

A jacquard weave fabric related to brocade, brocatelle is thicker and heavier—with its figures in higher relief. Originally made of silk, the fabric may now be made of wool, cotton, silk, manufactured fibers, and combinations. As with brocade, it is not considered reversible.

Uses: Interior decorating, lighter versions occasionally for clothing

See also:
Brocade

Damask differs from its jacquard relative brocade in that it can be reversed, although the reverse will feature the woven-in pattern in “negative.” Damask is characteristically one color but two different weaves, to set the patterns apart from the ground. If the pattern is satin on the face, it will be dull on the reverse. If two colors are used, these will be reversed on the back of the fabric.

The fabric gets its name from Damascus, Syria, a trade hub where this silk fabric from China was introduced to Europe. Starting in the 15th century, European damasks were made of linen; both staple fiber and filament fiber damasks are made still. Table linens of cotton and blends are often damask.

Uses: Table linens, household decorations, towels, wraps, evening wear, accessories

See also:
Brocade
Jacquard, woven

When yarns rather than a finished cloth are tie-dyed, the fabric woven from those tie-dyed yarns is most commonly called by its Indonesian name ikat. The name for this technique is kasuri in Japan, patola in India and mudmee in Thailand.

The tie-dyed yarns may be used just in the warp, just in the weft, or in both (warp ikat, weft ikat or double ikat). The patterns created are often compared to blurry reflections seen in water.

Silk and cotton fibers were traditionally used for ikat, but now any fiber can be found. The look of ikat may be simulated in printed patterns.

See also:
Tie-dye
Warp print

See Ikat

See Ikat

See Ikat

Hand-woven tapestry is made by running a bobbin back and forth in the area needed to create a design, not across the entire width of the fabric. Machine-made tapestry is jacquard woven to resemble handwoven tapestry. Heavier weft yarns are used creating a horizontal rib. Machine-made tapestry is not considered reversible.

Uses: Wall hangings, curtains, luggage, coats

See also:
Tapestry velvet

Made in imitation of tapestry, a patterned, jacquard-woven velvet with pile in a raised texture over the ground.

Uses: Coats, upholstery

See also:
Tapestry
Velvet