Pinet, Jean-Louis François

Jean-Louis François Pinet, born in 1817 to a shoemaker, trained rigorously and became a certified journeyman by 1836.

He innovated women’s footwear in Paris, patenting the distinctive “Pinet” heel in 1854, which was thinner, more solid, and less splayed than previous designs. Pinet was a pioneer in ergonomic shoe design, using anatomically correct left and right foot forms and ensuring fit, comfort, and durability.

In 1855, Pinet opened his own factory to improve production quality and quantity, expanding locations as his business grew. His shoes featured vivid colors and elaborate hand embroidery, the hand work produced by a large workforce, primarily women working from home. Pinet’s designs aligned with haute couture fashion, collaborating indirectly with top designers and creating innovations like the first ankle boot and the hourglass heel.

He gained international acclaim, winning a prestigious medal at the 1867 Exposition Universelle in Paris, which he commemorated by adding an engraving of the award to his shoes. Pinet trademarked his name and marked shoe details inside for authenticity, warning against counterfeits.

After Pinet’s death in 1897, a fraud case emerged involving a man who illegally used the Pinet name for a different shoe business; the original company successfully obtained an injunction against this misuse. Jean-Louis François Pinet’s company, F. Pinet and Cie., survives today as a respected luxury shoemaker.

Written by denisebrain