As the Victorian era drew to its close, skirts for both day and evening were elongated at the back to form a train. The silhouette was slim at the hip, accomplished by pleating and smocking the excess fabric. Any fullness in the skirt began below the knee. Decoration was achieved through large and small tucks, hem ruffles, buttons, and lace inserts. For day, ladies wore very high necks, and the bosom had an undefined, full shape over the boned bodice, which often ended below the waist. These pigeon-breast or mono-bosom bodices often featured wide cape-like collars that dropped from the shoulders. Sleeves were generally fitted from shoulder to elbow, then full to the wrist. A double-sleeved effect, featuring a small, gathered under-sleeve revealed at the wrist, was seen often.
Evening dresses were more daring and were worn off the shoulder, with or without sleeves. The Edwardian era began mid-decade and initially took a retro step, with small balloon sleeves and very nipped-in waists last seen in 1895. Skirts, although full, were rounded. Fabrics were soft and allowed to drape. Wide sashes or cummerbunds were de rigueur.
The retro look quickly faded in favor of the revolutionary designs of Paul Poiret, who quickly became the most prominent fashion designer in Paris. He showed slim, straight skirts and insisted on fewer undergarments. His decrees resulted in the disappearance of the high, boned collar and in the loosening of women’s corsets, allowing them to literally breathe sighs of relief. This new freedom enabled a higher-waisted look, and Poiret’s empire line was popular. Most representative of the period were the amazingly detailed, superbly constructed gowns. These featured lace, cord work, appliqué, soutache, beading, tucking, and inserts—very often on the same gown! The great Haute Couture houses of this era include Worth, Doucet, Lanvin, Boue Souers, Callot Souers, Paquin, Lucile, and Fortuny.
Written by The Vintage Fashion Guild
Next 1910 to 1920
Back Fashion Timeline
1900 Brown and Cream Silk Dress
Courtesy of bctreasuretrove.com
1901 Battenberg lace wedding dress
Courtesy of kickshawproductions
1902 red silk print dress
Courtesy of antiquedress.com
1902 black and white silk afternoon dress
Courtesy of kickshawproductions
early 1900 rhinestone paste collar pin
Courtesy of linn'scollection
early 1900 Cornucopia brooch
Courtesy of Leonardo da Vintage
early 1900s 14k amethyst and pearl brooch
Courtesy of linnscollection
early 1900s Arts and Crafts celluloid brooch
Courtesy of linnscollection
early 1900 wool and tape lace dress
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
early 1900s piano shawl
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
early 1900s silk dress
Courtesy of bctreasuretrove.com
early 1900s baby cotton dress
Courtesy of mariansvintagevanities
1902 lawn dress
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1903 flecked wool walking suit
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1904 silk gown
courtesy of antiquedress.com
1905 beaded lace and tulle ballgown
Courtesy of vintagetextile.com
1905 net silk and lace blouse
Courtesy of poppysvintageclothing
1905 lawn dress
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
1907 steel gray Fortuny Delphos gown
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1908 Fortuny gold painted silk tunic dress
Courtesy of pinkyagogo
1908 silk peignoir
Courtesy of vivavintageclothing.com
1909 gauze and satin gown
Courtesy of pastperfectvintage.com
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