Top weight

Assuit

Fabric Resource : Assuit

Tuesday, September 04, 2012

Assuit is a netting fabric embroidered with metal. The embroidery is done by threading wide needles with flat strips of metal about 1/8” wide. The metal may be nickel silver, copper or brass, and it is threaded through the holes in the net, folded over, cut and flattened, making little packets of metal. When finished, the metal packets are further flattened by rolling and/or hammering over the fabric. The netting is made of cotton or

Fabric, Netting, Cotton or cotton-like, Trims - veils - interfacing, Top weight

Fabric Resource : Balbriggan

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A jersey knit named for the town in Ireland where it was first made, balbriggan may be cotton, wool or a blend. It often has a soft, napped reverse. Balbriggan—or just bal—is also the name given to underwear made of it. Uses: Underwear, including long underwear See also: Jersey

Fabric, Top weight, Knit fabrics

1950s cotton bandanna print

Fabric Resource : Bandanna, bandana

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Although we now associate bandanna with a handkerchief of red or navy with a black and white pattern, a much older resist-dyed fabric from India is the progenitor of the mass-produced modern version. The name comes from the Hindi word bandhana meaning “to tie”—as in the preparation for dying the fabric. Tying small areas of a cotton cloth and then dying the fabric creates a tie-dye pattern of white spots in a darker ground. Bandanna

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Printed pattern fabrics

Barathea (silk type)

Fabric Resource : Barathea, silk type

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Once a name with a registered trademark, barathea is a silk or silky manufactured fiber fabric with a broken rib weave. Note that wool barathea is unrelated. Uses: Ties, cravats, dresses

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Horizontally ribbed fabrics

Batik-printed handwoven silk from India

Fabric Resource : Batik

Sunday, July 08, 2012

An ancient form of resist printing from Indonesia in which wax is used in patterns where dye is not desired. The wax resist is then removed and the process may continue, creating rich multicolored patterns—most often in blues, browns and oranges. Characteristic of batik are tiny lines where the wax has cracked and the dye has seeped into the resist pattern. This is not considered a flaw, rather part of the fabric’s distinct beauty. Originally

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Printed pattern fabrics

Cotton batiste

Fabric Resource : Batiste

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Named for Jean Baptiste, a French weaver of the 13th century who wove fine linen cloth, batiste is now most commonly made of cotton or a cotton/polyester blend, The fabric is light and sheer, with lengthwise streaks. It is a balanced plain weave. When cotton is used, the soft, limp fabric is often mercerized to bolster its luster and strength. The fabric is often white, pale solids or delicate prints. There are also wool, silk

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Lightest open weave or sheer fabrics

Cotton birdseye piqué

Fabric Resource : Birdseye piqué

Sunday, July 08, 2012

One of the piqué fabrics, made in cotton or cotton blends and with a small, distinct raised pattern on its face. Birdseye piqué’s pattern is a tiny diamond shape, reminiscent of a bird’s eye. A similar but somewhat larger oval pattern is called bullseye piqué. Also written bird’s-eye piqué, bird’s eye piqué. Uses: Dresses, blouses, sportswear, children’s clothing See also: Piqué

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Woven pattern fabrics: even - geometric - checked

Cotton broadcloth

Fabric Resource : Broadcloth, cotton type

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Broadcloth is a shirt weight fabric most commonly made of cotton or cotton blends. It is plain weave with a very fine horizontal rib. In the U.K., broadcloth is virtually synonymous with poplin. In the U.S. and Canada, poplin is considered a heavier fabric. Cotton broadcloth was introduced from England in the 1920s, and as it was a fine poplin, it was given a name to distinguish it from poplin. Broadcloth was originally a name

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Light to medium weight fabrics, Horizontally ribbed fabrics

Rayon brocade, face

Fabric Resource : Brocade

Sunday, July 08, 2012

An elaborately-patterned fabric woven on a jacquard loom since the early 19th century, brocade uses color, texture or both to emphasize its figures. The figures and ground may be of contrasting weaves such as satin on plain weave. Brocade is not considered reversible; the reverse is often distinguished by long floating threads. Brocade was originally made in Asia, of silk with gold or silver threads, and it may still be silk or a manufactured filament

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Woven pattern fabrics: non-geometric

Fabric Resource : Broché coutil

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Broché is a French term for brocade, or figured, and broché coutil is coutil with a jacquard pattern in its closely woven herringbone twill. Uses: Corsets See also: Coutil

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Woven pattern fabrics: even - geometric - checked

Burn-out fabric

Fabric Resource : Burn-out fabric

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Burn-out (burned-out, burnt-out) fabric is woven of more than one fiber type, then printed with a chemical that will destroy the surface fiber, leaving the ground intact. The result is a fabric patterned with a distinct surface and ground. The ground is usually sheer. Velvet is probably the most common type of burn-out fabric. Dévoré (literally “devoured”) velvet is synonymous. Uses: Evening wear, bridal, scarves See also: Burn-out velvet Dévoré velvet Façonné velvet Velvet

Fabric, Fabric Terms, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Printed pattern fabrics

Burn-out velvet

Fabric Resource : Burn-out velvet

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Velvet woven of two fibers, printed with a chemical that destroys one of the fibers, leaving a pile/ground pattern. Dévoré velvet is synonymous. See also: Burn-out fabric Dévoré velvet Façonné velvet Velvet

Fabric, Top weight, Pile and treated-pile fabrics

Calico

Fabric Resource : Calico

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Calico is a cotton or cotton blend fabric with a long history and distinct meanings in the U.S. and U.K. The fabric was first made of cotton in Calicut (Kozhikode), India, and there it was block printed with intricate designs. In the U.S. the fabric evolved into a relatively inexpensive fabric with small machine-printed patterns, usually flowers. In the U.K., calico is a plain weave cotton cloth, white or unbleached. Uses: The printed calico used

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Printed pattern fabrics

Cambric (linen)

Fabric Resource : Cambric

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A soft, plain weave fabric originally made from linen, now usually of cotton. It is named for the French city of Cambrai—a linen center since medieval times. The fabric is calendered to give it a glossy finish. On its finer side, cambric is much like lawn or batiste, while in its heavier weight (called “lining cambric”), it can be similar to fine muslin. Uses: Handkerchiefs, shirts, aprons, dresses, lingerie. Lining cambric is used for linings.

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Light to medium weight fabrics

Wool challis

Fabric Resource : Challis

Sunday, July 08, 2012

The name challis comes from the Anglo-Indian word “shalee,” meaning soft. Challis is indeed a very soft fabric, particularly fine in wool. It may be made of wool, rayon, cotton or manufactured fiber blends, and was originally made (1832) in Norwich, England, of silk and worsted. Characteristically in a light and open plain weave, although twill challis may be found. Challis is one of the few printed wools with the most common prints being floral

Fabric, Wool or wool-like, Top weight, Light to medium weight fabrics

Chambray

Fabric Resource : Chambray

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Chambray gets its name from Cambrai, a linen weaving town in Northern France where the fabric was first made. Originally linen, chambray is now usually cotton or a cotton blend. It is characterized by dyed warp yarns and undyed (white) weft yarns. It is a plain weave fabric and can be found in light to moderately heavy weights. The variations include stripes and checks as well as dobby-woven patterns. Uses: Shirts, children’s clothing, dresses, skirts

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Light to medium weight fabrics

Fabric Resource : Charmeuse

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A soft, lightweight, flowing silk fabric, charmeuse is now also made of manufactured fiber. With its semi-lustrous satin face and dull back, it compares to crepe-back satin, except it is lighter, less glossy and is used only with the satin side out. The name is French for “charming woman.” Uses: Blouses, evening gowns, dresses, lounge wear, lingerie and high-quality linings See also: Crepe-back satin

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Lustrous or glossy fabrics

Cheesecloth

Fabric Resource : Cheesecloth

Sunday, July 08, 2012

In the U.S., cheesecloth is the name of sheer, soft, loosely-woven bleached gauze fabric used for non-clothing purposes such as bandaging, dust cloths, and pressing cheese, butter and meat. In the U.K., cheesecloth is a light shirting weight soft cotton which is most often bleached but can be dyed, and is characterized by a crinkled texture. See also: Gauze Muslin Cotton crepe Cotton georgette

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Lightest open weave or sheer fabrics

Silk chiffon

Fabric Resource : Chiffon

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Chiffon is French for “rag,” but this very sheer fabric is the most elegant of rags! Originally silk, chiffon is also now made of polyester, nylon or rayon as well. It is a loose, balanced plain weave with tightly twisted single yarns in both directions. It has a subtle crepe texture, and is as light and thin as can be. Chiffon is sometimes also used to describe the lightness of a fabric, such as chiffon

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Lightest open weave or sheer fabrics

Fabric Resource : Chiffon velvet

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A lightweight, soft velvet with a short pile. The fabric has silk or manufactured fiber pile on a silk, manufactured fiber or cotton ground. Uses: Dresses, evening wear, women’s suits See also: Velvet

Fabric, Top weight, Pile and treated-pile fabrics

Habutai

Fabric Resource : China silk, habutai

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Very similar in their qualities, China silk originates from China, while habutai is Japanese. Habutai means “soft as down” in Japanese. Both are extremely soft, fine, light and lustrous fabrics, usually in a plain weave. China silk can be dyed, while habutai is more often left a natural ecru and can be slightly irregular in its fibers. Uses: Very light blouses, lingerie, linings

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Lightest open weave or sheer fabrics

Chintz

Fabric Resource : Chintz

Sunday, July 08, 2012

The characteristic print of chintz is a large floral pattern, and the finish is glossy from glazing. It is of cotton or a cotton blend, in a plain weave. The glaze can be starch or wax (both temporary finishes), or a more durable chemical resin. Unprinted but glazed fabrics are sometimes called chintz today. Chintz was originally made in India. The Indian name for the fabric was chint (plural chints), and the classic 17th century

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Lustrous or glossy fabrics

Fabric Resource : Ciré

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Ciré (French for waxed) is fabric given a hot calendering finishing treatment with wax applied to the fabric, resulting in a highly polished surface. When this treatment is given to taffeta, the fine ribs flatten and run together. Ciré is both the name of the finishing treatment and the name of cloth treated with this effect. See also: Taffeta

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Lustrous or glossy fabrics

Fabric Resource : Ciselé velvet

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A velvet made of cut and uncut pile in a pattern on a satin ground. See also: Velvet

Fabric, Top weight, Pile and treated-pile fabrics

Fabric Resource : Cotton crepe

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A crepe-textured lightweight cotton fabric, with the crepe texture achieved either through the use of crepe twist yarns or the treatment of the fabric with caustic soda. The caustic soda causes yarns to shrink, puckering the fabric. The result can be a crepe texture, a crinkled texture, or an even pattern such as dots or stripes. When caustic soda is applied in stripes, the result is plissé. See also: Crepe Plissé Caustic soda crepe Cotton

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Pattern- or pucker-textured fabrics

Fabric Resource : Cotton georgette

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A British term for a crepe-textured cotton fabric made of long staple cotton, the crepe texture achieved by the use of Z- and S-twist yarns, similar to silk georgette. Uses: Blouses, dresses, skirts See also: Georgette Crinkled gauze Cotton crepe

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Pattern- or pucker-textured fabrics

Coutil

Fabric Resource : Coutil

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Exceptionally strong, closely woven cotton or cotton and rayon blend fabric usually with a herringbone twill weave. The name is French, derived from “drill.” Uses: Corsets, brasseries See also: Broché coutil Drill

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Woven pattern fabrics: even - geometric - checked

Silk crepe de chine

Fabric Resource : Crepe de chine

Sunday, July 08, 2012

The name means crepe of China, and originally the fabric was silk, later polyester, nylon, rayon or acetate. The light to medium weight fabric is of plain weave construction which is subtly crepe textured due to the crepe twist of the weft yarns. The warp yarn is low twist, finer and much more plentiful than the weft. Uses: Blouses, linings, dresses, evening wear, lingerie

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Light to medium weight fabrics

Crepe-back satin - Face and reverse shown, with selvage down the middle

Fabric Resource : Crepe-back satin

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Lustrous on one side and with a crepe texture on the other, this light to medium weight fabric is called crepe-back satin when its glossy side is its face, and satin-back crepe when the dull side is the face. It can be called crepe satin or satin crepe as well. Sometimes the contrasting sides of the fabric are both used on the outside of a garment. Characteristically silk, it can be made of rayon or

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Lustrous or glossy fabrics

Crepon

Fabric Resource : Crepon

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Crepon and its close cousin bark crepe are characterized by lengthwise wrinkles. Bark crepe resembles the bark of a tree and is usually cotton, linen or rayon. Crepon, too, has a sturdy, vertically-rippled textured and may be silk, manufactured fiber, wool or cotton. The fabrics are compound fabrics, woven on dobby or jacquard looms. Uses: Dresses, blouses, suits, interior decorating See also: Matelasse

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Pattern- or pucker-textured fabrics

Plain weave crinkled cotton gauze

Fabric Resource : Crinkled gauze

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Gauze that has been given a wrinkled texture in the finishing process, usually mechanically, but also by the shrinking of high twist yarns. Similarly crinkled cotton fabric can also be seen in a heavier muslin sheeting weight, called crinkled muslin in the U.S. Uses: Loose-fitting, unstructured garments, most often blouses and dresses See also: Gauze Crepon Muslin

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Pattern- or pucker-textured fabrics

Crossbar dimity

Fabric Resource : Crossbar dimity

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A plain weave, sheer fabric with ribs at regular intervals in both directions (the warp and weft). The ribs are made by weaving two or more threads together as one. Crossbar dimity is made of cotton or a cotton blend and may be printed or plain. The name dimity is derived from the Greek dimitos, double thread. Tissue gingham is crossbar dimity outlining gingham checks. Uses: Dresses, blouses, skirts, aprons, lingerie, curtains See also: Dimity

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Woven pattern fabrics: even - geometric - checked

Damask (silk)

Fabric Resource : Damask

Sunday, July 08, 2012

Damask differs from its jacquard relative brocade in that it can be reversed, although the reverse will feature the woven-in pattern in “negative.” Damask is characteristically one color but two different weaves, to set the patterns apart from the ground. If the pattern is satin on the face, it will be dull on the reverse. If two colors are used, these will be reversed on the back of the fabric. The fabric gets its name

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Woven pattern fabrics: non-geometric

Dévoré velvet

Fabric Resource : Dévoré velvet

Monday, August 05, 2013

French for “devoured,” describing the eating away by chemical printing of one fiber in a velvet made of two fibers, such as silk and acetate. Synonymous with burn-out velvet. See also: Burn-out fabric Burn-out velvet Façonné velvet Velvet

Fabric, Top weight, Pile and treated-pile fabrics

Dimity

Fabric Resource : Dimity

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A sheer plain weave fabric, dimity is characterized by vertical ribs at regular intervals. These warp ribs are formed by joining two or more threads together and weaving them as one. Always cotton originally—now in cotton blends as well—dimity may be plain or printed. The name is derived from the Greek dimitos, double thread. Crossbar dimity has the same occasional rib, but in both directions. Uses: Dresses, blouses, skirts, aprons, lingerie, curtains See also: Crossbar

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Vertically ribbed fabrics

Dotted swiss, clip spot, face

Fabric Resource : Dotted swiss

Saturday, June 01, 2013

Traditionally made of a fine plain weave cotton—now sometimes a blend with manufactured fiber—dotted swiss always is covered in small dots placed at regular intervals. These can be woven in, flocked or printed. Colors may be introduced, although the most common is all white. The original and finest was first made in Switzerland on a swivel loom. Other woven varieties are clip-spot (spot-dot, clip-dot or American dotted swiss) and lappet woven. Flocked dots are made

Fabric, Cotton or cotton-like, Top weight, Woven pattern fabrics: even - geometric - checked, Printed pattern fabrics

Doupioni silk

Fabric Resource : Doupioni silk, doppione, douppione

Sunday, July 08, 2012

A plain weave, rather lustrous and crisp silk fabric with pronounced irregular ribs formed by slubbed yarns. The slubs are formed by the spinning of silk from a double (from which the name derives) silk worm cocoon, which can’t be unwound evenly in the reeling process, leaving thicker spots in the filaments. The slubbed ribs are usually horizontal (in the weft) but may also be vertical (in the warp). Doupioni silk is naturally an ecru

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Slub-textured fabrics

Silk duchesse satin

Fabric Resource : Duchesse satin

Monday, July 22, 2013

Heavy and luxurious very lustrous satin made of fine filament yarns in a tight satin weave. Originally always silk, duchesse can be rayon, polyester or acetate. Uses: Evening gowns, bridal See also: Peau de soie

Fabric, Silk or silk-like, Top weight, Bottom weight, Lustrous or glossy fabrics

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