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Chanel (1883?-1971) is known as one of the great influential couturiers of the 20th century. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel got her start as a milliner c.1908. By the end of WWI she had set up a dressmaking establishment, making jersey knit dresses and skirt and sweater combinations. This was seen as new usage of jersey, which was considered to be a fabric for making man’s underwear. Her early designs set the stage for how she would approach fashion throughout her life – simplicity of design combined with function and comfort.

Her first true collection was presented in 1922. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s her clothes were simply cut and easy to wear. Early on she became known for her love of certain colors and color combinations, which today we consider to be “classics” – beige and black, navy blue, deep red and white. She was an early designer of the black dress; some say she was the creator of the little black dress.

During this period, Chanel also introduced some of the elements that can be found over and over in her designs. These include her use of faux pearls and stones, simple decorations such as bows and camellias, and the extension of the interior of a garment to the outside of it.

Chanel closed during WWII, but in 1954 she staged a fashion comeback. Her signature garment was a simple cardigan suit, which she continued to make until her death in 1971.

After her death, her design house floundered until the design job was given to Karl Lagerfeld in 1983. He has been very successful in incorporating the iconic elements of Chanel’s work into his own. Lagerfeld continues to design the Chanel collections, reinterpreting the look for which she was so well known – the Chanel suit.

Label note: Adaptation labels were used not by the designer, but by US firms that were making fashions that were adapted from the designer’s work. Many firms did adaptations, and an adaptation might be a faithful reproduction of the original, or it might be very loosely based on the designer’s work.

Written by fuzzylizzie


from a 1923 evening cape - Courtesy of Augusta Auctions

from a 1923 evening cape

Courtesy of Augusta Auctions

from an early 1920s dress - Courtesy trevira

from an early 1920s dress

Courtesy trevira

from a mid-1920s dress - Courtesy of Kurth Mansion Antiques, Judith Stout

from a mid-1920s dress

Courtesy of Kurth Mansion Antiques, Judith Stout

from a 1920s coat (Adaptation, please read above)  - Courtesy of antiquedress.com

from a 1920s coat (Adaptation, please read above)

Courtesy of antiquedress.com

from a late 1920s/early 1930s beaded dress - Courtesy of vintage*belle

from a late 1920s/early 1930s beaded dress

Courtesy of vintage*belle

from a 1930s dress - Courtesy of coutureallure.com

from a 1930s dress

Courtesy of coutureallure.com

from a 1935 wedding gown - Courtesy of meloovintage

from a 1935 wedding gown

Courtesy of meloovintage

c.1936 - Courtesy of kickshawproductions

c.1936

Courtesy of kickshawproductions

from a pair of late 1930s gloves - Courtesy of pinkcoke

from a pair of late 1930s gloves

Courtesy of pinkcoke

from a mid 1960s couture suit - Courtesy of Circavintageclothing

from a mid 1960s couture suit

Courtesy of Circavintageclothing

from a late 1960s couture suit  - Courtesy of fuzzylizzie.com

from a late 1960s couture suit

Courtesy of fuzzylizzie.com

from a late 1960s couture suit  - Courtesy of chezmov

from a late 1960s couture suit

Courtesy of chezmov

from a late 1960s suit (numbered behind label) - Courtesy of chezmov

from a late 1960s suit (numbered behind label)

Courtesy of chezmov

from a 1970s couture skirt  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s couture skirt

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s couture blouse - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s couture blouse

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s couture suit  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s couture suit

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s suit  - Courtesy of catbooks1940s

from a 1970s suit

Courtesy of catbooks1940s

from a 1970s rtw dress  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s rtw dress

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s rtw blouse  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1970s rtw blouse

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1980s rtw suit - Courtesy of ellenm

from a 1980s rtw suit

Courtesy of ellenm

from a late 1980s rtw suit  - Courtesy of ellenm

from a late 1980s rtw suit

Courtesy of ellenm

from a late 1980s rtw sweater  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a late 1980s rtw sweater

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a late 1980s rtw blouse  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a late 1980s rtw blouse

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 1996 Autumn Collection sweater  - Courtesy of themerchantsofvintage

from a 1996 Autumn Collection sweater

Courtesy of themerchantsofvintage

from a 1999 chiffon skirt  - Courtesy of claireshaeffer

from a 1999 chiffon skirt

Courtesy of claireshaeffer

from a 2000s rtw pants suit  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 2000s rtw pants suit

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 2003 beaded jacket  - Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

from a 2003 beaded jacket

Courtesy of Claire Shaeffer

Check the spelling carefully. This is not Chanel. - Courtesy of tastyvintage.com

Check the spelling carefully. This is not Chanel.

Courtesy of tastyvintage.com

from a 1950s Australian-made dress, not authentic Chanel - Courtesy of GemGem

from a 1950s Australian-made dress, not authentic Chanel

Courtesy of GemGem