Bowler – Derby

The bowler or derby hat is generally made of a hard, dark felt – usually black or brown – but can also be made of stiff fur.

The basic style features a bowl-shaped crown and a short circular brim with a slight curl. While the color and materials vary little, there are variations to the shapes and styles of the bowler, including the young men’s lower-crowned derby, the ventilated ‘Dunlap,’ and the flat-topped derby which was a favorite of famed American financier J.P. Morgan and also of Winston Churchill.

This hat style was invented in 1849 in England as a bowler, but is often called a derby in the United States due to its association with equestrian pastimes and sporting events, particularly the Kentucky Derby. The bowler hat was in its fashion heyday in the early part of the 20th century, but lost popularity when a more casual ‘soft hat’ attitude crept into men’s fashions after World War I.

Over the years, there have been many famous bowler wearers – such Charlie Chaplin and Stan Laurel – and the hat is still worn today for many equestrian events.

Written by JauntyRooster

1880 wool derby

Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

1900 wool derby

Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

c. 1900 bowler

Courtesy of badgirlvintage

1920s felt bowler

Courtesy of nvcmens

1930-39 wool derby

Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art

1930s bowler

Courtesy of nvcmens

1930s Stetson bowler

Courtesy of pinkyagogo

1950s straw bowler

Courtesy of ranchqueenvintage

1960s felt bowler

Courtesy of aleycatsvintage

1960s angora felt derby

Courtesy of thespectrum

1960s Mr. John straw tall bowler

Courtesy of myvintageclothesline

1960s red wool lady’s bowler

Courtesy of morningglorious

1960s Chante feather bowler hat

Courtesy of cmpollack